An Urban Sketcher's Journal
Baroda through the Eyes of Amit Mistry
By Pragya Chauhan and Moxa Sheth
Sketches of Architectural Landmarks across Baroda. (Illustration - Moxa Sheth)
One of the most lively towns in Gujarat, the history of Baroda city goes back to 812 AD. It is a fitting memorial to its late ruler Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III, who transformed Baroda into an educational, industrial and commercial centre with prolific art and architecture. The city had passed through the hands of many powerful rulers before finally being claimed by the Gaekwad dynasty in the 1720s.
Baroda brims with heritage and has some great architectural landmarks from India’s medieval and modern periods. Like its architecture, the locals are an indulgent mix of people from different faiths and states, and because of this, it’s often referred to as ‘Sanskarnagari’ or ‘the cultured city’ by its proud residents.
Located on the banks of river Vishwamitri, the name of the city is derived from ‘vad’ which in Sanskrit means the Banyan tree. These trees, along with architecture have a prominent presence in the urban fabric of the city.
Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III - the ruler under whom Baroda flourished, was well-travelled and very fond of European architecture. He invited architect R. F. Chisholm and the city planner Patrick Geddes, who contributed significantly to his vision of the city. The monuments designed and constructed during this period were deliberate attempts to send a message of might and wealth to the English rulers.
This article shares some sketches of these marvels through the eyes of an architect.
1. Laxmi Vilas Palace (1890):
Designed by Major Chales Mant, this palace serves as the residence of Baroda’s royal family till date. It covers an area of 700 acres and has a golf course, a zoo and a museum within the premises.
2. Sayaji Baug (1879):
Earlier called Kamauti Baug, this garden was dedicated to the citizens of Baroda and is one of the largest public gardens in Western India. It is around 140 years old and spreads across 113 acres. This park houses a museum, zoo, planetarium, open air theater and is dotted with several water fountains and bronze sculptures.
3. Maharaja Sayajirao University (1881):
The university is one of the oldest learning centers in Western India. A beautiful exposed brick and stone structure, its real architectural value lies in the dome atop the Faculty of Arts wing which is the second highest masonry dome in Asia (48 m high). The campus buildings flaunt the majestic Indo-Saracenic architecture style in a fusion of Indian and Byzantine arches and domes.
4. The Kothi (1922):
The only building in the city built in Scottish Style, the structure was inspired by the Balmoral Castle in Scotland. The structure symbolizes the friendship between Maharaja Sayajirao Gaekwad III and Queen Victoria of Britain, and is currently being used as the head office of the district administration.
5. Aurobindo Ashram (1894):
The structure served as a residence to Shri Aurobindo Ghosh from 1894 to 1906, and is now a library of Sri Aurobindo’s literature, meditation center and a sales emporium.
6. The Raopura Tower, (1896):
The clock tower is located at the heart of the fortified city and is a 5 storied structure which dominates the skyline of Baroda. An elegant exposed brick structure with stucco work, the tower has clocks measuring 6ft in diameter on all four sides.
7. Khanderao Market (1906):
The market complex was the last project by renowned architect Robert Fellowes Chisholm. The monumental building encloses a central court and the main facade is dominated by twin Nagara-style shikhara sitting atop an imposing gateway.
8. Baroda Museum and Picture Gallery (1894):
This museum was designed by architects Major Mand and Robert Chisholm to resemble the Victoria and Albert Museum of London.
9. Narshinhji Mandir (1738):
This temple is housed in a 282-year-old haveli. The haveli is a classical example of a typical Gujarati haveli with a central courtyard and facades adorned with delicate wooden carvings.
10. Vad Circle (2015):
The sculpture forms a 20-foot arch above the ground, weighs 34,000 kg and is carved out of Jodhpur Sandstone. It was designed by artist Nagji Patel, and depicts the aerial roots of a Banyan Tree.
11. Pani Gate (16th Century):
The gate served as the eastern gate to the fortified city of Baroda. Although the walls of the city do not exist anymore, the 4 gates stand to this day.
12. The city is known for its ‘pols’ or residential clusters. These are an indigenous typology of community housing featuring 2-3 storied narrow houses sharing a common wall, each with a central courtyard. A unique spatial element of these houses is the ‘otla’ or an extended plinth at the front of the house - which is also a social space.
13. Usually at the heart of ‘pols’ or residential clusters, are ‘chowks’ or large open spaces with ‘chabutras’ (bird feed). Chowks are popular social spaces and host gatherings of all capacities.
Today, Baroda is recognized as the cultural capital of Gujarat. Along with its glorious cultural past, it is also an industrial hub and plays a key role in the economy of our country. The city offers a little something for each kind of traveler, be it a history buff or an artist or a businessman.
About the Artist:
Passionate about architecture, Amit Mistry has 20 years of field experience in the profession and 9 years of teaching experience at the Arvindbhai Patel Institute of Environmental Design, Vallabh Vidyanagar. He has a penchant for sketching which he explores through hand sketches and digital media. Architecture, history and design, caricatures and portraits are some of the most recurring themes in his sketches.